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History Q & A by Marilyn Smith
Opossum at finest in 1905 cookbook
March 11, 2005
Question: About a year ago, my sister and I spent several hours in the Heritage Museum and you were kind enough to open a glass showcase displaying very old cookbooks so we could have "up close" looks at some of the recipes. Could you please tell about the oldest one you have on display, and some of the recipes?
Answer: The oldest cookbook we have on display is a copy of "Harrison Helps" by the Ladies Aid Society of the M. E. Church South of Harrison, Arkansas. It was printed by the Harrison Times Printery in 1905.
The preface of the book reads as follows: "In presenting to the public the 'Harrison Helps,' a cookbook, compiled by the Ladies Aid Society of the M. E. Church South, at Harrison, Ark., we believe it will fill a long felt want, and satisfactorily meet the requirements of Housekeepers of all classes. It embodies the original and tested recipes from the capable and painstaking Housewives, not only of Harrison, but other vicinities, but all admirably in line with the purpose of the Book, which is to present the highest ideal and 'most excellent way' in actual every day cookery 'of the people, by the people, and for the people.'" signed: Josephine B. Crump.
This old cookbook is signed by Ida Mae Griggs and Eliza Baker (signatures may not be authentic) and notations are made in the margins commenting on good recipes. Names of those submitting recipes represent many of Boone County's prominent families, and the advertisements in the back of the book are from of some of the oldest businesses that once graced downtown Harrison, Eureka Springs and Berryville.
The recipes are fun to read; many do not have measurements, leaving you to guess how much to add; but some would probably work in today's kitchens.
Let's start with one that caught my eye: Opossum. The first requisite is "to get the possum;" the next to have him fat, then clean him properly. He should be killed the day before he is to be cooked by cutting his throat so as to bleed freely. Have ready some scalding water (not boiling) into which some ashes have been thrown. Then scald, being very careful not to get the hair set, and pick and rub as you would a chicken. After all the hair is off, roll in hot ashes and scrape good with a dull knife. Then wash and open as you would a hog. Let soak in salt water for two hours; salt and let stand overnight and freeze if possible. When ready to cook, wash again and put in pot of boiling water and boil for one hour; drain off this water and cover again with boiling water. Put in a small pod of red pepper and a pinch of sage. When the possum begins to get a little tender, drop into your pot some sweet potatoes with the fat that rises in the water where the possum has boiled. Bake to a rich brown. (Mrs. A. J. Walters, Harrison.) Anyone for possum?
Another recipe was submitted by a Mrs. Stiffler - could this be the same Stiffler for which Stiffler Springs got its name? Mrs. Stiffler's Warmed-over Potatoes: Cold boiled potatoes left over from dinner, slice and put in skillet in which is ready a big spoonful of meat drippings; pepper and salt and add three good sized onions finely cut. From time to time, add a little hot water. The potatoes and onions are stirred until the whole is a savory dish.
Have you heard of "rusks?" Here is the recipe: Four eggs well beaten; one cup of sweet milk; one cup of yeast; one half cup of sugar; enough flour to make a stiff batter. Let it stand all night and until about eight o'clock in the morning, then add a cup of butter and flour to make a stiff dough. (Miss Kittie Cox.)
Many of the dessert recipes in the book are probably still used today - even though some have odd measurements! For example: Kisses - Whites of seven eggs; fourteen tablespoons of sugar; one "goblet" of pecans: beat one hour, drop on buttered paper and bake one hour. (Mrs. Frank Greene, Harrison, Ark.)
From Cousin Lizzie's Cookies to Brandy Snaps; from Cheese Fenders to Stewed Cheese; from Cabinet Pudding to Grape Catsup; from Lemon Jelly to Pressed Chicken - this little book is a treasure from cooks of the early 1900s.
The Heritage Museum strives to preserve the past for future generations to enjoy whether it be cookbooks, family histories, old pictures, or family artifacts that have been generously donated. The 1912 Harrison High School building is filled with memorabilia representing "life as it was" in Boone County. You are invited to visit any day - Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. The museum is located on the corner of South Cherry Street and Central Avenue.
This column appears Fridays in the Harrison Daily Times. Mail questions to Boone County Heritage Museum, P. O. Box 1094, Harrison, AR 72601. Marilyn Smith can be contacted at bchm@windstream.net
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